Emalie onboard 

Tug-of-war 

Isle of Hope at Savannah, Georgia 

Ruins of Dungeness Estate 

St Catherines Island, Georgia 

Trail at Cumberland National Seashore 

April 9th to April 25, 2005

Saturday, April 9, 2005
Location: Bahia Mar, Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Destination: Rybovich Spencer Marina, Lake Worth, FL

We awoke this morning to sunny skies and winds W/NW at 10-15 kts. Since the wind conditions have finally moderated, we plan to go offshore today and make the 45 nautical mile trip to Lake Worth. This offshore leg lets us bypass about 15 restricted bridges on the trip north.

We depart Bahia Mar at 8:30 a.m. and catch the 9:00 a.m. bridge opening at the Port Everglades Inlet. We put out main and staysail and motor sail along nicely cutting the 3- to 4-foot seas easily at about 7.5 kts. For most of the day we have a relatively uneventful trip until I spot some kind of pole sticking up from the water directly in our path. At this point, we are 3 miles offshore in about 150 feet of water. I holler down to Dave to come up in the cockpit to see if he can help identify what the heck I’m looking at. We then notice that this so-called pole is moving through the water headed straight for us at a very high rate of speed. It then shifts course and continues to move sporadically through the water. Suddenly a Sea Tow vessel with flashing lights approaches our bow and the captain hails us on the radio. He informs us that a Navy submarine is performing exercise maneuvers in this area and we should immediately head further out to sea or move closer toward shore to clear its path. I thank him for the call and Dave quickly alters course and heads closer toward the shoreline until we’re in about 35-feet of water. We are both amazed that a Navy sub could be performing maneuvers with only a Sea Tow boat monitoring its progress.

We arrive at Rybovich Spencer at 4:00 p.m. Although we only plan to spend one night, we make a note that this full-service boatyard seems like a good place to stop if we ever need to get some boat work done. The staff is very friendly and helpful.

At the end of our dock is a brand new 30-foot Hinkley sailboat with a light green hull. Its simple, traditional beauty is quite impressive. One of the other sailors visiting the marina tells us that this boat belongs to Jimmy Buffet and that he’s expected to come by tomorrow. Oh well, we’ll be heading out early so it looks like we won’t get to see him.
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Sunday, April 10, 2005
Location: Rybovich Spencer Marina, Lake Worth, FL
Destination: Ft. Pierce anchorage, Ft. Pierce, FL

We are expecting NE winds to increase throughout the day so today’s trip includes 10 restricted bridge openings on the ICW.

We depart Rybovich Spencer Marina at 9:00 a.m. under partly cloudy skies and wind our way north on the ICW. We are surprised that there is very little boat traffic headed north today. However, the lack of traffic makes dealing with the restricted bridge openings so much easier this time around. Since conditions on the ICW remain calm throughout the day, we let Joop and Tula hang out in the cockpit with us and spend a relaxing afternoon taking in the sights.

After a long day, we arrive at the Ft. Pierce anchorage at 4:45 p.m. and anchor outside the channel leading to the Harbortown Marina. We take the dogs ashore on the beach beside the waterfront park. While Dave helps a women launch her dinghy off the beach, a park ranger stops by to warn us of a guy who lets his Pit Bull dogs run loose at this park. We thank her for the information and keep a sharp lookout.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 27 28.20 W 080 19.45 in 7.4 ft. water at low tide. Good holding with a clay bottom.
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Monday, April 11, 2005
Location: Ft. Pierce anchorage, Ft. Pierce, FL
Destination: Titusville anchorage, Titusville, FL

We weigh anchor at 8:10 a.m. bound for either Dragon Pt. or Cocoa Beach. Temps are in the 70’s and winds are E/NE at 5-10 kts.

As we make our way north, we catch an updated weather report. Another strong cold front is expected to head our way starting Thursday afternoon bringing strong northerly winds and the possibility of thunderstorms. Since conditions are calm today we decide to push on all the way to Titusville; an 86 statute mile-long trip. We’re hoping this will allow us to push on to St. Augustine ahead of the cold front.

We finally arrive in Titusville at 7:20 p.m. with just enough daylight left to get the boat safely anchored and take the dogs ashore at the little island across the channel. We are both exhausted as we arrive at the anchorage only to find it is now loaded with crab pots and not another boat anchored there. To tired to care, Dave does a magnificent job of anchoring the boat in the midst of the crab pots without getting our prop tangled.

Once we get the boat settled, Dave notices that many other sailboats are anchored just north of the bridge in front of the Titusville marina. Oh well, fortunately the winds are calm tonight and we have no problems.

Anchor Notes: anchored in position N 28 7.09 W 080 47.84 in 12.4 ft. water, 3 hours after low tide.

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Tuesday, April 12, 2005
Location: Titusville anchorage, Titusville, FL
Destination: Halifax Harbor Marina, Daytona, FL

After an early morning trip ashore, we get underway at 7:15 a.m. The winds are calm out of the south. We make an uneventful 54 statute mile trip north to Daytona.

We arrive at the marina and tie up at 2:00 p.m. Unfortunately the fuel dock is out of service so we plan to stop tomorrow at Caribbean Jack’s Marina to top of the tank before continuing on to St. Augustine.

Once we get settled, we head over to the West Marine to return a few items. We then take the dogs for a nice long walk downtown. Since we’re both dead tired, we decide to hit the sack early and get a good night’s rest.
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Wednesday, April 13, 2005
Location: Halifax Harbor Marina, Daytona, FL
Destination: Oyster Creek Marina, St. Augustine, FL

We depart Halifax Harbor Marina at 8:00 a.m. and catch the 8:15 opening of the Memorial Bridge. As planned, we stopped at Caribbean Jack’s fuel dock to top of the tank. We were happy to discover such a good, easy access fuel dock with a 6-ft approach at low tide. This is a great place to stop and re-fuel along the ICW.

Again, today, we are fortunate to have an uneventful trip north. Later in the afternoon, the winds increased with gusts up to 28 kts. Thinking of the winds, current, and an unknown marina setup, I was just a bit anxious that the docking would go smoothly. Oyster Creek marina is located on the northern end of the San Sebastian River. As it turns out the marina had two hands to assist us with the docking and with their help we nestled in between the two large paddlewheel boats on the T-head of “B” Dock. Since the weather is expected to deteriorate starting tomorrow, we are relieved to arrive at the marina and get tied up by 4:00 p.m. The marina is much easier to approach than the City Marina downtown and there is less current to deal with here. It is also much closer to the grocery store and West Marine than the downtown marina, yet all of the local attractions are still within walking distance.
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Thursday, April 14th to Sunday, April 17, 2005
Location: Oyster Creek Marina, St. Augustine, FL
Destination: staying put

Thursday morning we pack up the propane tank and hike it over to AmeriGas to have it filled. Unfortunately the service guy had just left for the day so we had to leave the tank and will pick it up tomorrow.

We then head into town to find some place for Dave to get his hair cut. I stopped into the local restaurant where we had gone for breakfast on our last trip and asked the waitresses there for a recommendation. The girls suggested we head over to a salon near Scarlett O’Hara’s pub. It turned out to be a full service salon and spa. I was tempted to book a facial and/or massage but for some unknown reason I decided against it. I must be getting frugal in my old age. Dave enjoys his haircut and chat with a witty, young, oriental hair stylist who left Michigan to get away from the snow and cold.

As predicted, a cold front moved into the region late Thursday night bringing with it strong northerly winds in the 25 – 35 kt. range. Fortunately the wind direction is pushing our boat away from the dock so we don’t have to worry about damaging the boat.

Throughout the weekend the winds continue to howl. Dave decides to make good use of the time by doing (you guessed it) more boat maintenance. He’s so much more disciplined than I. He replaced a broken valve in the dinghy, changed the oil in the generator, and adjusted the engine clutch cable tension since it seemed a little stretched out. I got to tend to the more mundane household and laundry duties. How boring!

On Friday I notice that there is an Eye doctor’s office across the street from the marina and a sign outside saying Eye Exams today. Well it just so happens that I need to have an eye exam in order to have my license renewed from out of state. I head over to the office in the afternoon and have to wait just a half hour for an exam. The doctor then fills out the paperwork I need and I head over to the marina office to get my renewal application notarized. I can’t believe all the stuff I have to do just to renew my driver’s license without being there.

Saturday night we attended the weekly marina’s theme potluck dinner. This week was Texas night. Dave cooked up a big batch of barbeque chicken for us to contribute. The food was terrific, especially the brisket, and we met some nice people. The marina manager, who refers to himself as Capt’n Nasty, and his long-time buddy played a few tunes on their guitars for everyone’s enjoyment. All in all it was a nice gathering.

Sunday the winds begin to subside so we head to the Winn Dixie to pick up some groceries, clean the boat, and prepare for a Monday departure. When everything is set to go, we treat ourselves to dinner at Hurricane Patty’s and then call it a night.
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Monday, April 18, 2005
Location: Oyster Creek Marina, St. Augustine, FL
Destination: Alligator Creek anchorage, Amelia Island, FL

We time our departure to catch the ebb and leave Oyster Creek Marina at 8:50 a.m. Although the winds were light, there was a small-craft advisory in effect for coastal waters due to large, 6- to 10-foot, northeast swells. As we pass the St. Augustine inlet we can see the huge surf crashing on the bar. We’re glad we decided to take the inside route. We have about 40 miles to go to the Alligator Creek which will be our last stop in Florida.

The trip goes smoothly until we reach the Atlantic Beach Bridge. Here, the guide mentions that there can be up to a 7-kt. current. Indeed, it was a 7-kt. current, and it felt and looked like we just entered class-5 white-water rapids. Fortunately, the tide was with us and swept us through the narrow bridge opening with a rush of adrenaline that comes with the feeling of not being in control of the vessel. Had we been going the other direction and not realized the danger, the result could have been disastrous.

Along the way, I discover that the bow thruster controller is not working. I call Island Packet and they agree to send a replacement to the Isle of Hope Marina in Georgia. Hopefully, we won’t miss it when docking at the marina

We arrive at the serene Alligator Creek anchorage at 5:30 p.m. While Sandy does a few boat chores, I row the girls over to the same oyster-shell bed they visited when we last came through here. It was a gorgeous starlit and relaxing night at anchor.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 30 34.54 W 081 28.28 in 17.2 feet water at high tide
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Tuesday, April 19, 2005
Location: Alligator Creek anchorage, Amelia Island, FL
Destination: Cumberland Island anchorage, Cumberland Island, GA

With coffee mug in hand, I peer out of the cockpit in the early predawn to discover a calm, quiet morning with patchy fog. The tide was turning and we needed an early departure in order to get the most of the waning flood. I rowed the girls ashore to the just visible oyster shell bank and in the process wake a flock of sleepy pelicans.

We weigh anchor just before sunrise at 6:20 a.m. Visibility is a challenge due to the lack of daylight and the constant fogging of the dodger windshield. While I struggle to stay on course, Sandy does her best to towel off the windshield.

Only a couple of hours go by before we pass Fernandina to leave Florida behind us and cut across the entrance to St Mary’s, Georgia. We then fight the strong ebb to turn up into Cumberland Sound where our anchorage is next to Cumberland Island. Just past the SeaScout dock we drop anchor at 9:30 a.m.

Most of Cumberland Island is now under the jurisdiction of the Cumberland National Seashore. It is a spectacular barrier island with Live Oaks and Palmetto groves that give way to grass-covered dunes and miles of sandy beach. The wildlife includes wild horses, pigs, deer, and armadillos—the latter of which, we were told can do some serious damage with their sharp claws if threatened. Most folks we met came over on the St Mary’s ferry to camp and hike the miles of trails.

We spend the rest of the day hiking and running the girls on the beach. They are thrilled to have the opportunity to play ball in the surf and to chase the chittering shore birds. On our return, we check out the ruins of the Dungeness estate, now home to diamondback rattlers and scorpions. Sandy fantasizes about living here at the turn of the century.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 30 45.95 W 081 28.30 in 17.4 ft water. Put out 77 ft. chain.
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Wednesday, April 20, 2005
Location: Cumberland Island anchorage, Cumberland Island, GA
Destination: Walburg Creek anchorage, St. Catherine’s Sound, GA

Today we have a great weather window to head offshore. We depart Cumberland Island at 7:20 a.m. bound for St. Simons Island. As we head out through the long well-marked St Mary’s inlet, we think about Sandy’s brother Tom who must have passed through here many times on Navy submarines while he was stationed at Kings Bay Naval Station.

The seas are flat with gentle swells. A light southeast wind helps us motor along under main and staysail. Since conditions are suitable, we decide to bypass St Simons Island and head further north to our next anchorage at Walburg Creek behind St Catherines Island for a total of 77 nautical miles.

Along the way, we hear on the radio that the Causton Bluff drawbridge in Savannah is out of service indefinitely. Apparently there was an accident involving a dump truck and the bridge was severely damaged. We call the Isle of Hope marina to confirm this news since with the bridge out we won’t be able to continue on the ICW to Beaufort. They tell us that the bridge is out of service for at least a week. They also tell us that we can take the Wilmington River out to sea at Wassaw Sound to get around the bridge.

We arrive at Walburg Creek at 6:20 p.m. We take the girls ashore and find many deer tracks in the sand. As I expected, later that evening just before dark, the deer return to the beach to forage along the shoreline.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 31 40.62 W 081 09.53 in 24.4 ft water at high tide. Put out 93 ft. chain.
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Thursday, April 21, 2005
Location: Walburg Creek anchorage, St. Catherine’s Sound, GA
Destination: Isle of Hope Marina, Savannah, GA

Waiting for the rising tide to make our passage across Hell Gate, we get underway from Walburg Creek at 1:00 p.m.

We ride the tidal rivers through the low country making good time and arrive at Isle of Hope Marina at 5:30 p.m. We tie up on the face dock.

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Friday, April 22 to Monday, April 25 2005
Location: Isle of Hope Marina, Savannah, GA
Destination: Staying put

This morning we take a walk along the waterfront and take in the incredible beauty of the southern style homes nestled beneath majestic live oaks. Everyone we meet is friendly and we both dream what it would be like to live here along the tidal river.

My package from Island Packet arrives and I take apart the helm to replace the bow thruster controller with the new one. Unfortunately, they sent me the wrong model controller. After a few calls, they agree to send out the right controller that is due to arrive on Monday.

While we wait for the new controller to arrive, Sandy will be visiting Nicole, Doug, and baby Emalie for the weekend. The girls and I decide to stay behind as some bad weather is expected and I will need to keep an eye on things.

Sunday afternoon, we all head into downtown Savannah and enjoy a nice lunch in celebration of Sandy’s birthday. When we return, Emalie has a great time exploring the boat and marina. I think someday she may want to sail with Grandma and Grandpa.

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Total accumulated miles traveled: 2903.6 statute miles _____________________________________________

Mmm Good! 

Beach at Indian Key Pass 

Mangroves at the Everglades 

Beach at Cape Sable on the Gulf Coast 

March 23 to April 8, 2005

Wednesday, March 23, 2005
Location: Marco River Marina, Marco Island
Destination: Indian Key, Everglades Nat'l Park

Today is Tula’s 2nd birthday. Come June she will have accumulated sea time equivalent to half her life. She is certainly comfortable with our cruising lifestyle and I wonder if we both will find home life a tad boring upon our return.

It’s hot and humid as we get underway at 9:00 a.m. bound for Indian Key in the Everglades Nat’l Park. Winds were light, around 8 kts. out of the south, and the weather called for the possibility of scattered showers and thunderstorms in the afternoon and early evening.

We arrived at our anchorage at 3:00 p.m. just outside the channel to Indian Key. I brought up the weather satellite connection and saw a band of thunderstorms crossing the Gulf of Mexico traveling east about 40 miles north of us. It looked like we might see the trailing edge of the front but nothing serious.

Around 4:00 p.m. I checked the progress of the storm front and saw that it was starting to move south a bit closer to our location. Although our anchorage was unprotected, I felt reasonably confident that the holding was secure enough if the winds picked up.

At 4:30 p.m. all hell broke loose. The radio weather forecast was now warning mariners in our location to be on alert for wind gusts up to 70 kts., large hail, severe ground to sky lightning, and possible waterspouts. I looked outside just in time to see a line of ominous black clouds with trailing legs to the water moving directly toward us. Forced now to make a quick “fight or flight” decision, we had about fifteen minutes at best to find a new protected anchorage before the storm would strike. It only took about five more seconds to realize that we were in big trouble if we didn’t get inside the channel in the lee of the island. Unsure our draft would allow us safe passage or whether the holding was good, we hauled anchor as if our lives depended on it and started full speed for the channel. Just as we came abreast of the island we were overtaken by the storm. As the winds picked up to 35 kts, I dropped the anchor and yelled to Sandy to hold on tight as the storm raged over us.

The winds and rain pounded us for about 20 minutes before abating. Since we knew that there were multiple storm cells moving towards us, we realized that our position in the channel was tenuous and that we would need to move further upstream for better protection.

We hauled anchor again and sounded our way in another mile up the Russell Pass. We then anchored between the mangrove banks in about 9 feet of water with the anchor setting well in the firm sandy bottom. With a sigh of relief, we knew we were as safe as we could be.

Around midnight, the next storm struck us with crashes of lightening and thunder and 40 kt. gusts that spun us around 360 degrees. With nothing more to be done, all four of us huddled beneath the blankets and waited for dawn. Finally, the sun came out and we arose to a beautiful scene of mist-covered mangroves, singing blackbirds, and a small, sandy beach where we could safely land Joop and Tula.

Anchor Notes: Russell pass was a good anchorage with a firm, sandy bottom. We anchored in position N 25 50.063 W 081 26.496 in 9.0 ft. water at low tide.
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Thursday, March 24th, 2005
Location: Russell Pass anchorage, Everglades Nat’l Park
Destination: Staying put

With the weather calling for a chance of thunderstorms again today, we decided to stay put and enjoy the Everglades. Except for the bites from the pesky little no-see-ums, which came through the screens like they weren’t even there, we rested comfortably in our protected anchorage.

Later that afternoon, we took a dinghy ride up through Indian Pass to Everglades City to enjoy the beautiful scenery. In good weather, this area is definitely worthwhile. It’s a scenic and serene anchorage. In bad weather, it also proved to be a safe anchorage.
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Friday, March 25, 2005
Location: Russell Pass anchorage, Everglades Nat’l Park
Destination: East Cape Sable anchorage

It’s another hot and humid morning as we get underway at 9:15 a.m. bound for East Cape Sable. The winds are out of the south at 15 kts. but are expected to diminish to between 5 – 10 kts. this afternoon. Cape Sable is another exposed anchorage but it has a beautiful, shell-strewn beach on which to land the dogs. We arrive about 5:30 p.m. and settle in for a quiet night.

Anchor Notes: We anchored in position N 25 08.159 W 081 08.089 in 8.5 ft. water at low tide.
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Saturday, March 26, 2005
Location: East Cape Sable anchorage
Destination: Marathon Marina, Marathon, FL

Saturday morning we depart Cape Sable bound for Marathon Marina. It’s another hot one but it looks like we’ll have an uneventful passage. We arrive at the marina around 2:30 p.m. and head over to the fuel dock to top of the tank. Conveniently, our assigned slip is adjacent to the fuel dock so we have an easy time docking. We register at the office for a 3-night stay and plan to spend the time preparing the boat for the trip back north.
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Sunday, March 27th to Monday March 28th, 2005

We awaken to a beautiful Easter morning and after taking the girls for a nice hike, decide to spend the rest of the day doing some engine and generator maintenance followed by stainless polishing. Monday we get caught up on the laundry and finally head into town for provisioning at Publix.

Monday night we meet up with Greg and Susie from Aloahilani for a barbeque. They were good enough to provide the steaks and we brought along a garden salad and potato salad to add to the mix. Greg also invited another couple, John and Ellen. John works with Greg at the marina on the bay side. John and Ellen are from Boston and also came down the ICW this fall. From here, they plan to head over to Panama come Spring. We all had a great time swapping sea stories while dining in the moonlight.
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Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Location: Marathon Marina, Marathon, FL
Destination: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL

It’s a beautiful sunny morning as we depart the marina at 8:30 a.m. bound for Rodriguez Key. Winds are in the 10-12 kt. range out of the NE.

Today’s trip officially begins our northward trek back home. Along the way, Sandy spots one of her favorites--a large sea turtle—dive just below the surface beside the boat. Not to be outdone by a docile sea turtle, our next sighting was a 6-7 ft. shark. At first, we thought it was just another dolphin, but as we got closer, you could clearly see the shark fin circling in some type of feeding frenzy.

We arrived at our anchorage about 4:00 p.m. It feels good to be back here where the water is so clear you can see the sand and grassy bottom. Once we get the anchor set, Dave dives beneath the boat to check on the status of the bottom paint and the zincs. As he expected, the zincs need to be replaced before we head home. We plan to hire a diver when we get to Ft. Lauderdale.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 25 03.84 W 080 26.94 in 7 ft. water at low tide. We put out 90 ft. chain.
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Wednesday, March 30, 2005
Location: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL
Destination: staying put

It’s a beautiful day to travel but we decide to hang out here one more day to enjoy one of our favorite spots in the Keys. We lounge the day away reading in the cockpit and soaking up the sunshine. Later that afternoon we take the dogs ashore and enjoy a take-out order of coconut shrimp from the Mandalay. We both agree that we’re going to miss this place.
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Thursday, March 31, 2005
Location: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL
Destination: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne, FL

Just before dawn, we wake up the girls and take them for an early trip ashore. We then get underway at 6:20 a.m. and head for No Name Harbor in Key Biscayne about 35 miles away. Our early departure should allow us to make the Cape Florida passage shortly after high tide.
We arrive at our anchorage at 1:30 p.m. and were pleased to find the harbor nearly empty.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 25 40.59 W 080 09.75 in 13 ft. of water at high tide. We put out 60 ft. chain.
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Friday, April 1st to Monday, April 4th, 2005
Location: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne
Destination: Staying Put

We spend the next four days enjoying the sights and sounds of No Name harbor. An expected cold front comes through but we ride it out secure in the protected harbor. Joop and Tula enjoy the freedom of hiking through the trails chasing ground birds and geckos. Over the weekend, the harbor is packed with loaded power boats reveling to Cuban music and barbecues galore. All about us girls dance wildly on the decks of their motor yachts while others shed their tops and lay out in the sun. Lots of families dropped anchor all around us and plunged into the refreshing green depths while dolphins even joined the celebration.

Monday morning we head into town to get some provisions and return to a quiet harbor. We then decide to deflate and store the dinghy on deck since we’ll be traveling offshore and staying at marinas for the next few stops.
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Tuesday, April 5, 2005
Location: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne
Destination: Bahia Mar Yachting Center, Ft. Lauderdale

We get underway at 8:30 a.m. with winds 12 to 18 kts out of the East. Since we are very close to the West wall of the Gulf Stream, the swells are four to five feet which makes for a wet day. We sail around 6-7 kts under reefed jib and reefed main.

After entering Port Everglades, we make the 2:00 p.m. 17th Street Causeway Bridge opening and tie up at our slip on B dock by 2:20 p.m.
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Wednesday, April 6th to Friday, April 8, 2005
Location: Bahia Mar Yachting Center, Ft. Lauderdale
Destination: staying put

Since we’re expecting another cold front to blow through late Thursday and Friday, we book the slip until the weekend. On Wednesday we decide to hike 3-miles out to the West Marine to pick up a few things we need for the boat. It’s a warm afternoon but it feels good to stretch our sea legs a bit.

On Thursday we make the trek to West Marine for a second time, this time to return a block used by the staysail furling lines that was the wrong size. By bypassing the block entirely, we eliminate the problem and find that the furling lines work more smoothly.

Thursday night the anticipated weather system moves into the area. Throughout the night the winds blew about 25 kts. with heavy rain, thunder, and lightening.
Friday’s weather brings more rain but Saturday’s forecast promises bright skies and winds 5-10 kts. out of the West. It sounds like a good day to move on so we plan to head offshore for Palm Beach tomorrow.

In the meantime, we will catch a good Celtic band tonight at a local pub called Sally O'Brien's; should be fun!
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Total accumulated miles traveled: 2,428.6 statute miles
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