March 23 to April 8, 2005

Wednesday, March 23, 2005
Location: Marco River Marina, Marco Island
Destination: Indian Key, Everglades Nat'l Park

Today is Tula’s 2nd birthday. Come June she will have accumulated sea time equivalent to half her life. She is certainly comfortable with our cruising lifestyle and I wonder if we both will find home life a tad boring upon our return.

It’s hot and humid as we get underway at 9:00 a.m. bound for Indian Key in the Everglades Nat’l Park. Winds were light, around 8 kts. out of the south, and the weather called for the possibility of scattered showers and thunderstorms in the afternoon and early evening.

We arrived at our anchorage at 3:00 p.m. just outside the channel to Indian Key. I brought up the weather satellite connection and saw a band of thunderstorms crossing the Gulf of Mexico traveling east about 40 miles north of us. It looked like we might see the trailing edge of the front but nothing serious.

Around 4:00 p.m. I checked the progress of the storm front and saw that it was starting to move south a bit closer to our location. Although our anchorage was unprotected, I felt reasonably confident that the holding was secure enough if the winds picked up.

At 4:30 p.m. all hell broke loose. The radio weather forecast was now warning mariners in our location to be on alert for wind gusts up to 70 kts., large hail, severe ground to sky lightning, and possible waterspouts. I looked outside just in time to see a line of ominous black clouds with trailing legs to the water moving directly toward us. Forced now to make a quick “fight or flight” decision, we had about fifteen minutes at best to find a new protected anchorage before the storm would strike. It only took about five more seconds to realize that we were in big trouble if we didn’t get inside the channel in the lee of the island. Unsure our draft would allow us safe passage or whether the holding was good, we hauled anchor as if our lives depended on it and started full speed for the channel. Just as we came abreast of the island we were overtaken by the storm. As the winds picked up to 35 kts, I dropped the anchor and yelled to Sandy to hold on tight as the storm raged over us.

The winds and rain pounded us for about 20 minutes before abating. Since we knew that there were multiple storm cells moving towards us, we realized that our position in the channel was tenuous and that we would need to move further upstream for better protection.

We hauled anchor again and sounded our way in another mile up the Russell Pass. We then anchored between the mangrove banks in about 9 feet of water with the anchor setting well in the firm sandy bottom. With a sigh of relief, we knew we were as safe as we could be.

Around midnight, the next storm struck us with crashes of lightening and thunder and 40 kt. gusts that spun us around 360 degrees. With nothing more to be done, all four of us huddled beneath the blankets and waited for dawn. Finally, the sun came out and we arose to a beautiful scene of mist-covered mangroves, singing blackbirds, and a small, sandy beach where we could safely land Joop and Tula.

Anchor Notes: Russell pass was a good anchorage with a firm, sandy bottom. We anchored in position N 25 50.063 W 081 26.496 in 9.0 ft. water at low tide.
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Thursday, March 24th, 2005
Location: Russell Pass anchorage, Everglades Nat’l Park
Destination: Staying put

With the weather calling for a chance of thunderstorms again today, we decided to stay put and enjoy the Everglades. Except for the bites from the pesky little no-see-ums, which came through the screens like they weren’t even there, we rested comfortably in our protected anchorage.

Later that afternoon, we took a dinghy ride up through Indian Pass to Everglades City to enjoy the beautiful scenery. In good weather, this area is definitely worthwhile. It’s a scenic and serene anchorage. In bad weather, it also proved to be a safe anchorage.
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Friday, March 25, 2005
Location: Russell Pass anchorage, Everglades Nat’l Park
Destination: East Cape Sable anchorage

It’s another hot and humid morning as we get underway at 9:15 a.m. bound for East Cape Sable. The winds are out of the south at 15 kts. but are expected to diminish to between 5 – 10 kts. this afternoon. Cape Sable is another exposed anchorage but it has a beautiful, shell-strewn beach on which to land the dogs. We arrive about 5:30 p.m. and settle in for a quiet night.

Anchor Notes: We anchored in position N 25 08.159 W 081 08.089 in 8.5 ft. water at low tide.
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Saturday, March 26, 2005
Location: East Cape Sable anchorage
Destination: Marathon Marina, Marathon, FL

Saturday morning we depart Cape Sable bound for Marathon Marina. It’s another hot one but it looks like we’ll have an uneventful passage. We arrive at the marina around 2:30 p.m. and head over to the fuel dock to top of the tank. Conveniently, our assigned slip is adjacent to the fuel dock so we have an easy time docking. We register at the office for a 3-night stay and plan to spend the time preparing the boat for the trip back north.
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Sunday, March 27th to Monday March 28th, 2005

We awaken to a beautiful Easter morning and after taking the girls for a nice hike, decide to spend the rest of the day doing some engine and generator maintenance followed by stainless polishing. Monday we get caught up on the laundry and finally head into town for provisioning at Publix.

Monday night we meet up with Greg and Susie from Aloahilani for a barbeque. They were good enough to provide the steaks and we brought along a garden salad and potato salad to add to the mix. Greg also invited another couple, John and Ellen. John works with Greg at the marina on the bay side. John and Ellen are from Boston and also came down the ICW this fall. From here, they plan to head over to Panama come Spring. We all had a great time swapping sea stories while dining in the moonlight.
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Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Location: Marathon Marina, Marathon, FL
Destination: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL

It’s a beautiful sunny morning as we depart the marina at 8:30 a.m. bound for Rodriguez Key. Winds are in the 10-12 kt. range out of the NE.

Today’s trip officially begins our northward trek back home. Along the way, Sandy spots one of her favorites--a large sea turtle—dive just below the surface beside the boat. Not to be outdone by a docile sea turtle, our next sighting was a 6-7 ft. shark. At first, we thought it was just another dolphin, but as we got closer, you could clearly see the shark fin circling in some type of feeding frenzy.

We arrived at our anchorage about 4:00 p.m. It feels good to be back here where the water is so clear you can see the sand and grassy bottom. Once we get the anchor set, Dave dives beneath the boat to check on the status of the bottom paint and the zincs. As he expected, the zincs need to be replaced before we head home. We plan to hire a diver when we get to Ft. Lauderdale.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 25 03.84 W 080 26.94 in 7 ft. water at low tide. We put out 90 ft. chain.
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Wednesday, March 30, 2005
Location: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL
Destination: staying put

It’s a beautiful day to travel but we decide to hang out here one more day to enjoy one of our favorite spots in the Keys. We lounge the day away reading in the cockpit and soaking up the sunshine. Later that afternoon we take the dogs ashore and enjoy a take-out order of coconut shrimp from the Mandalay. We both agree that we’re going to miss this place.
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Thursday, March 31, 2005
Location: Rodriguez Key anchorage, Key Largo, FL
Destination: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne, FL

Just before dawn, we wake up the girls and take them for an early trip ashore. We then get underway at 6:20 a.m. and head for No Name Harbor in Key Biscayne about 35 miles away. Our early departure should allow us to make the Cape Florida passage shortly after high tide.
We arrive at our anchorage at 1:30 p.m. and were pleased to find the harbor nearly empty.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 25 40.59 W 080 09.75 in 13 ft. of water at high tide. We put out 60 ft. chain.
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Friday, April 1st to Monday, April 4th, 2005
Location: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne
Destination: Staying Put

We spend the next four days enjoying the sights and sounds of No Name harbor. An expected cold front comes through but we ride it out secure in the protected harbor. Joop and Tula enjoy the freedom of hiking through the trails chasing ground birds and geckos. Over the weekend, the harbor is packed with loaded power boats reveling to Cuban music and barbecues galore. All about us girls dance wildly on the decks of their motor yachts while others shed their tops and lay out in the sun. Lots of families dropped anchor all around us and plunged into the refreshing green depths while dolphins even joined the celebration.

Monday morning we head into town to get some provisions and return to a quiet harbor. We then decide to deflate and store the dinghy on deck since we’ll be traveling offshore and staying at marinas for the next few stops.
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Tuesday, April 5, 2005
Location: No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne
Destination: Bahia Mar Yachting Center, Ft. Lauderdale

We get underway at 8:30 a.m. with winds 12 to 18 kts out of the East. Since we are very close to the West wall of the Gulf Stream, the swells are four to five feet which makes for a wet day. We sail around 6-7 kts under reefed jib and reefed main.

After entering Port Everglades, we make the 2:00 p.m. 17th Street Causeway Bridge opening and tie up at our slip on B dock by 2:20 p.m.
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Wednesday, April 6th to Friday, April 8, 2005
Location: Bahia Mar Yachting Center, Ft. Lauderdale
Destination: staying put

Since we’re expecting another cold front to blow through late Thursday and Friday, we book the slip until the weekend. On Wednesday we decide to hike 3-miles out to the West Marine to pick up a few things we need for the boat. It’s a warm afternoon but it feels good to stretch our sea legs a bit.

On Thursday we make the trek to West Marine for a second time, this time to return a block used by the staysail furling lines that was the wrong size. By bypassing the block entirely, we eliminate the problem and find that the furling lines work more smoothly.

Thursday night the anticipated weather system moves into the area. Throughout the night the winds blew about 25 kts. with heavy rain, thunder, and lightening.
Friday’s weather brings more rain but Saturday’s forecast promises bright skies and winds 5-10 kts. out of the West. It sounds like a good day to move on so we plan to head offshore for Palm Beach tomorrow.

In the meantime, we will catch a good Celtic band tonight at a local pub called Sally O'Brien's; should be fun!
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Total accumulated miles traveled: 2,428.6 statute miles
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