Early morning on the Cape Fear River in Southport, NC  

Morning mist on the Waccamaw 

The Althea 

Boarding party 

On the Santee River 

Spring weather in Charleston 

April 26 to May 8, 2005

Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Location: Isle of Hope Marina, Savannah, GA
Destination: Staying put

We originally planned to move on today, however the weather forecast is calling for thunderstorms throughout the day. Since we have to travel offshore from here to Beaufort, we decide to hang out one more day. The weather forecast looks more favorable tomorrow.
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Wednesday, April 27, 2005
Location: Isle of Hope Marina, Savannah, GA
Destination: Beaufort anchorage, Beaufort, S.C.

At 10:00 a.m. we bid farewell to Savannah and make our way out the Wilmington River in Wassaw Sound for our offshore trip to Beaufort. Today’s trip will take us approximately 60 nautical miles north.

The offshore portion of the trip goes well. With winds in the 15-20 kt. range, we motor sail with reefed main and staysail past the Tybee Roads inlet (Savannah River) and on to the Port Royal Sound inlet. As soon as we make our turn into the inlet, the winds dramatically increase and we’re now dealing with a 30-kt. wind right on our beam. To further complicate matters, the tide is running out at about 2 kts. Fortunately the reefed main and staysail combination give us a wild 7-kt. ride up through Port Royal Sound and past the Parris Island Marine Base. Once again we thank God that we had the good sense to purchase a full-keel Island Packet cruising yacht. She handles herself incredibly well in this stuff.

We arrive at the anchorage just south of the Beaufort City Marina at 7:00 p.m. and select a spot just outside the ICW channel to drop the hook. We take the girls ashore for a short walk and to stretch our legs a bit before settling in for the night. Although we both would love to spend more time here, fond memories of our last visit in Beaufort will have to do. We need to get an early start to catch the morning tide especially since the Ladies Island Swing Bridge is restricted from 7:00 to 9:00 a.m.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 32 25.737, W 80 40.628 in 19.9 feet depth at low tide. We took the dogs ashore at the public landing dock.
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Thursday, April 28, 2005
Location: Beaufort anchorage, Beaufort, S.C.
Destination: Charleston City Marina, Charleston, S.C.

We get an early morning start so we can pass through the Ladies Island Swing Bridge before it shuts down for its restricted hours beginning at 7:00 a.m. We’re underway at 6:30 a.m. bound for the Steamboat Creek anchorage but as we make our way north, we decide to continue past Steamboat Creek and push on to Charleston. We’re making good time and a Spring Northeaster is expected to come in tomorrow so it just makes sense to get tied to the dock today if possible. Fortunately the current turns in our favor and we’re able to make the Wappoo Bridge in time for the 3:00 p.m. opening.

After hailing the marina on the radio several times before they answered, we finally get tied up to the outside of the face dock. When we went into the office to register, I checked to see if the Wellman’s from Great Escape were still here. Unfortunately, we missed them by a few hours; they moved on this morning. Perhaps we’ll meet up with them somewhere else along the way.
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Friday, April 29th to Monday, May 2nd 2005
Location: Charleston City Marina, Charleston, S.C.
Destination: staying put

Today we plan to meet up with our friends, Bob and Sandy Schaeffer from Gold Rush, for dinner in town. Bob and Sandy are here in Charleston to drop off Gold Rush which they have just put up for sale. In just a few short weeks they’ll be back here to take delivery of their brand new Beneteau sailboat. Then, the fun really begins. For anyone who has ever purchased a brand new boat, you can appreciate all the hard work and research that goes into outfitting that new vessel. We wish them all the best.

We meet up with the Schaeffer’s just before 5:00 p.m. and take advantage of the Charleston Marina shuttle for a ride into town. We all enjoy a great seafood dinner at Hyman’s. It’s such a nice night that we decide to walk down to the Battery and stroll along the waterfront back to the marina.

Saturday morning, I take the 9:00 a.m. shuttle to the Harris Teter shopping center to reprovision. It’s a good thing I decided to head out early. As the day passes on, spring truly roars in like a lion. A cold front passes through the area with high winds howling about 30–35 kts throughout the day. Large waves continually pound against the hull and we’re kicking ourselves for not docking on the inside of the face dock when we had the chance. About midday, we have to haul the dinghy out of the water and lash her down to the dock to prevent it from continually beating against the dock. We take out every fender we have and place them strategically between the hull and the dock to keep our boat from getting damaged. Needless to say, we hunker down in the cabin and watch a few DVDs to pass the afternoon away. Late in the day the rains come and the winds die down.

Sunday morning my son Kevin comes to visit us for the day. It’s so good to see him. He and his family are moving to the Columbia, S.C. area where Kevin just procured a new job as a Collections Manager. Shelley and the kids are still back in New Hampshire awaiting sale of their home while Kevin is holed up in an extended stay hotel for the next six weeks.

We all enjoy a nice lunch in town at Tommy Condon’s Irish Pub and then stroll through some of the shops before heading back to the marina.

Monday we go back into town for a final look around. We then return to the marina to prepare the boat for a Tuesday morning departure.
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Tuesday, May 3, 2005
Location: Charleston City Marina, Charleston, S.C.
Destination: South Santee River anchorage, Brown Island, S.C.

We depart Charleston City Marina at 10:20 a.m. bound for the Awendaw Creek anchorage but, once again, we decide to travel further to the South Santee River while we have the current in our favor. The winds today are from the N/NE at 18 kts, under partly cloudy skies.

We arrive at the anchorage at 5:20 p.m. and find a good spot to take the dogs ashore. Just southwest of where we anchored, there is an abandoned dock with a fire lookout tower. Next to the dock is a small cove that makes for a perfect dinghy landing spot. This is a beautiful example of the low country and you can see for miles across the banks of sea grass and tree-covered hummocks.

When we got back to the boat, we made dinner and settled in for a nice quiet night. This is a great place to stop along the ICW.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position N 33 08.996, W 079 19.288 in 15.8 feet water at high tide. We put out 96 ft. chain.
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Wednesday, May 4, 2005
Location: South Santee River anchorage, Brown Island, S.C.
Destination: Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, S.C.

Underway at 11:20 a.m., we’re bound for Bucksport on the Waccamaw River. We loved this stop on the way south and so we’re looking forward to our visit. The Waccamaw River is the prettiest and most undeveloped stretch of the ICW.

Along the way, Dave spots a 4-ft alligator on the banks of the Estherville Minim Creek. This is the first sighting we’ve had of an alligator in the wild. An hour later, Dave spots another alligator swimming across the creek. I’m sure glad we didn’t anchor here.

We then make our way north and pass by the Wynah Bay Inlet. With the current against us, we’re still able to make good time motor sailing with just the jib out. Once we get past Georgetown, we lose the wind and have to furl in the sail. Still, we continue to make good time toward Bucksport as the tide is now in our favor.

We arrive at the Bucksport Marina at 5:30 p.m. and tie up along the face dock. We plan to stay here at least 2 nights so Dave can get in some kayaking time. There are so many little creeks to explore and the scenery is breathtaking.
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Thursday, May 5, 2005
Location: Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, S.C.
Destination: staying put

We awake to cloudy skies and drizzle. Not to be discouraged by a little rain, Dave suits up and heads out on his kayak for a little exploration. He brings along his digital camera which is tucked safely in a dry bag. For the several hours that he’s gone, I catch up on the blog. I remind myself how much we’ll appreciate having this information when we return on future trips south.

When Dave returns, we head over to the little restaurant for a quick breakfast. While we’re there, we talk with the owners to get some information about the area. They direct us to a few pieces of land for sale right on the riverfront. We’re thinking that we sure would love to own a small lot of land here with a nice little camp cabin at some point in the future. We’ll see.

The cold rain continues throughout the afternoon so I’m just as happy that we decided to stay put today. It would have been a dreary, wet travel day. Tonight we might grab dinner over at the restaurant. I hear they serve up some great seafood dishes.

Tomorrow we plan to head out to No. Myrtle Beach. In the meantime I think I’ll catch up on some light reading.

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Friday, May 6, 2005
Location: Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, S.C.
Destination: staying put

Today, high winds and cold temperatures make us change our minds about leaving. Over some blueberry pancakes and bacon I ask the marina manager about a fishing boat I found sunk in a small but deep creek up the Old River yesterday while kayaking. The name of the vessel is Althea; a wooden trawler in surprisingly good condition. With a hint of mystery, he tells me a somewhat sketchy story about a local man who was “dating a black woman.” They moved in together and were living aboard Althea in the creek. The local man started having some new friends come out to visit his boat. One day, the local man stopped by the marina and asked the manager for a lift to his boat. On the way, he seemed upset and told the manager that he had sold his boat to his new friends for two hundred dollars and a plane ticket to New Mexico. A week later the Althea was found sunk in the creek with no explanation. Several months have now gone by and no one has attempted to salvage the wreck.

I finish my coffee and as questions I wanted to ask grew in my mind as to what might have happened, the marine manager turned and left.
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Saturday, May 7, 2005
Location: Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, S.C.
Destination: Southport Marina, Southport N.C.

With rising mist coming off the tranquil waters of the Waccamaw, we get underway at 6:40 a.m. As we motor through the morning taking in the breathtaking beauty of the cypress-lined banks, I am struck by a feeling that I’m in the presence of ancient spirits protecting the waterway. Some of these cypress trees tower over 75-feet with huge hollowed-out portions and twisted limbs that are home to owls and ospreys. Tied to their bottom overhanging branches are trot lines set by the locals to catch up to fifty catfish at a time. Again, I feel drawn to stay here and live among these venerable trees, but, thinking of the Althea, perhaps the river is best left as a wonderful place to visit.

We continue on past North Myrtle Beach and then get snagged by an unexpected bridge opening delay at the Little River Swing Bridge. With a falling tide, I press on to reach our destination hoping for no more delays.

As we get a few miles away from the Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge, Sandy hails them on the radio to confirm their posted opening schedule. The bridge tender informs us that his next opening is at 1:00 p.m. We slow down to 4 kts. to time our arrival for the opening. Fifteen minutes before the scheduled opening, we hear over the radio that the bridge is opening one final time before closing for two to three hours due to the extreme low tide. In a panic, we radio the bridge tender and ask him to please hold the bridge for us. He says that he can’t wait. We decide to press on anyway and while Sandy tries to plead with the bridge tender on the radio, I push the throttle up to around 3200 rpm. We come around the corner and finally, the bridge tender says that he’ll try to hold for us. With a gasp of relief, we push through the opening and give thanks to the tender for holding the bridge and for our trusty engine that got us there in time.

Feeling the strain of the long day, we get to the Shalotte Inlet and slowly sound our way across looking for the deep water. Next thing we know, we’re aground right next to a dredge. Sandy hails the dredge tug while I work the throttle and tiller to try and get us off. The captain comes out and starts a tirade that this is all due to those people who voted republican. We nod our heads and ask if he knows where the deeper water lies. He shouts that he has no idea. We call Sea Tow and ask for assistance. Sandy informs the tug captain that we’ve called Sea Tow and this starts him on another tirade. Finally, he says he’s coming to haul us off. In a second, he pulls us free and we’re back on our way.

At 5:30, we pull into our slip at the Southport Marina. Later, Sandy and I walk into town for a great dinner at a place called the Live Oak Tavern. It was a perfect ending to a long day.
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Sunday, May 8, 2005
Location: Southport Marina, Southport, N.C.
Destination: Harbour Village Marina, Hampstead N.C.

This morning we get underway at 6:15 a.m. to catch the flood tide on the Cape Fear River. Unlike yesterday, we have an uneventful day and make the 42 miles in good time arriving at our slip at 12:30. The quiet, protected marina is just what we needed. They even provide a golf cart for us to take back and forth to the marina office and laundry. We spend a relaxing afternoon catching up on a few boat chores. A few slips away from us is a great looking tug boat. We inquire and the owners tell us it's a Lord Nelson tug boat. Who knows what's down the road for us. She sure looks like a rugged sea-going vessel.

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Total accumulated miles traveled: 3,216 statute miles _____________________________________________