Homebound – The Final Leg

May 21, 2007 through May 25, 2007

After waiting a grand total of 10 days in Cape May for the wind and seas to settle down, we finally got a good weather window on Monday, May 21st for an overnight sail up the New Jersey coast through New York Harbor, the East River, and into Long Island Sound. We left Cape May at 2:45 p.m. with NW winds around 15 kts. and gusting to 20, but expected to turn SE around 10 kts. after midnight. We had an easy overnight run up the coast with calm seas and very little commercial traffic in our path. During the night while about four miles offshore we were surprised to hear loons calling out to us. We accepted this as a good luck sign for safe travel back home.

The following day and 180 nautical miles later, we arrived at Manhasset Harbor in Port Washington, NY shortly before 2:00 p.m. I would have to say that Jupiter and Tula were very excited to make landfall after keeping their paws crossed for 24 hours. Needless to say, it was a very quick dinghy launch to get them ashore. Much relieved, we all returned to the boat for some nourishment and much-needed rest.

Wednesday morning, after a few maintenance tasks, we departed Port Washington at 8:30 a.m. for a short 35-mile run up to Port Jefferson, NY. We arrived at 1:45 p.m. and took a mooring for the night. The next morning we awoke at 3:30 a.m. to prepare for the final 100 nautical mile trip back home to Bristol. We got underway at 5:00 a.m. and had a nice downwind sail most of the day. Around 1:00 p.m. we rounded the point at Watch Hill and arrived in Rhode Island waters. Although we were exhausted from our travels, we were both thrilled to be sailing up the West Passage, past Dutch Harbor, under the Jamestown Bridge, around Prudence Island, and up the East Passage to Bristol Harbor. It was a sight to behold.

Safe and sound, we arrived at our new downtown mooring at 7:30 p.m. on Thursday, May 24th. Since it was getting late and we were worn out after a long day on the water, we decided to spend our final night onboard the boat. Early Friday morning we gathered up a few of our belongings and headed for the house. We were so grateful to find our home and property in perfect condition under the attentive care of our dear friend Dan Dougherty. He’s simply the best!

It is now almost a week since our return and we are finally getting our land legs back. The next few weeks will be filled with reunions of both family and friends. Although it was an incredible trip filled with many memorable events, people, and places, we’re happy to be back home in beautiful Bristol!

The Slow Creep North

May 7, 2007 through May 17, 2007

The further north we travel, the slower our progress becomes. Since our arrival in Solomon’s Island, MD, we’ve encountered one weather system after another. Maybe our progress was just a little too good, after all it is Spring and the weather can be rather unpredictable this time of year.

We stayed in Solomon’s Island for 4 days waiting out an unpredicted and violent storm system off the Carolina coast which devastatingly claimed a 50-ft sailboat named Flying Colors with 4 persons on board, shaking up the entire cruising community. It really weighed heavily on our hearts to hear the Coast Guard search day after day for the lost vessel with no success before finally having to give up the search. A tragedy such as this reminds us to count our blessings every day. Our thoughts and prayers go out to the families of the lost crew.

On Tuesday, May 8th the weather cleared enough for us to head up to Annapolis where we picked up a mooring for the evening. We enjoyed an early dinner at McGarvey’s Pub and settled in for the evening. The next morning we awoke to dense fog in the harbor but by 8:30 a.m. it began to lift so we headed out for Summit North Marina in the Chesapeake + Delaware Canal. The next morning we were again fogbound so we delayed our departure until 10:00 a.m.

The trek down the Delaware River was mild in comparison to other trips. This time around we experienced calm seas and light wind. However, shortly before arriving at the entrance to the Cohansey River, the fog rolled back in and made navigation a little scary. We prayed the fog would clear before entering the river and thankfully it did. We were greeted by Monroe at Hancock Harbor Marina in Greenwich, NJ around 2:00 p.m.

Most cruisers bypass this wonderful river in favor of a single long day on the Delaware but I wouldn’t miss this stop for anything. The folks are so down to earth and friendly and the marina is surrounded by beautiful unspoiled farmland, which is literally a natural wildlife sanctuary. Within one 30-minute walk we encountered wild turkeys, deer, rabbits, geese, a woodchuck, and a Fisher cat. Since the following day’s forecast called for more dense fog and a strong threat of thunderstorms, we happily stayed put for one more day. Munroe was kind enough to drive us into Bridgeton so we could do laundry and pick up a few provisions at the grocers.

Bright and early on Saturday, May 12th we bid farewell to Munroe and headed south down Delaware Bay for Cape May, NJ. It turns out that it was a really good thing we headed out at 6:00 a.m. because we arrived at the entrance to the Cape May channel just as a cold front approached, ahead of schedule of course. The going was pretty rough entering the harbor as the winds in the channel gusted to 30 kts. on our approach. The current was churning up like the spin cycle on a washing machine. Dave handled the boat masterfully in the very narrow entrance to Utchs’s Marina. It was a relief to tie up to the dock as the wind and seas increased throughout the remainder of the afternoon.

Since Sunday was Mother’s Day, Dave offered to take me out for a nice breakfast. As we were walking to the restaurant, we met another cruising couple from Branford NY, John and Diane from the cruising catamaran Duetto. We asked them if they would like to join us for breakfast and we found them to be great company and an engaging couple. Later that evening they invited us to join them onboard their boat for a few cocktails and appetizers.

We also met Larry and Gail from S/V Tropical Gale Winds who are headed back to Lake Ontario. Over cocktails onboard their Hunter 36, they shared their experiences traversing the many locks heading up through the Erie Canal. Someday we may do the Great Circle Loop, but probably not on this boat.

It is now almost a week later and we are still sitting tight in Cape May, NJ. Multiple cold fronts between here and New York Harbor have been kicking up wind and seas. This coupled with the threat of severe thunderstorms has kept us in a holding pattern. Some things just can’t be rushed. I guess we’ll just head into town and enjoy a nice lunch. We’ll get home eventually.

Holed up in Solomon's Island, MD

April 20, 2007 Through May 6th, 2007

We have made good time heading north on our trek back home to RI from the Bahamas. The last few days, against 15-kt to 20-kt northeast winds and seas, Stillwaters has beat northbound for about 110 nautical miles up the Chesapeake Bay into Maryland. We are now tucked in on a mooring in Back Creek in Solomon’s Island for a few days while we wait this latest cold front to subside. It is a good time to catch some R&R and update the blog.

On April 21, we left Steamboat Creek, SC after resting a day due to the previous long night spent on anchor watch with high winds and wild thunderstorms. Wanting to push forward, we then headed on past Charleston to reach our anticipated anchorage in the South Santee River. The low country was alive with spring fever! Along the way we saw our first wide-eyed loggerhead turtle, numerous deer at water's edge, Bald Eagles atop huge stick-woven nests, but, no gators to my disappointment and Sandy’s relief. From the Santee, we wound our way down the Stono River to Minim Creek, passing Georgetown, SC before riding the tide up the deep, tea-colored waters of the Waccamaw River. Here we passed abandoned rice fields, numerous half-submerged logs covered with fresh-water turtles basking in the sun, and magnificent, ancient looking cypress trees home to ospreys and owls. We then tied up at one of my most favorite all time spots, Bucksport, SC. The next day, reluctantly, we left Bucksport, passing through Myrtle Beach and tied up at Southport Harbor Village Marina. To celebrate Sandy’s 50th birthday, we had a delicious dinner out at Joseph’s Italian Restaurante. After 7 months at sea, eating mostly my own cooking, it felt great to get dressed up and dine in a fancy restaurant. In comparison to my 50th birthday party, Sandy’s was a quiet, but still very enjoyable celebration. I guess we will save the big party for her 60th. How else can I get my revenge!

We’re in North Carolina now and the weather has become definitely more spring like. No more Live Oaks with Spanish Moss, Palm trees, etc. On April 24th, after breaking out the long underwear and foul-weather gear, we beat our way up the Cape Fear River bound for a small marina that catered to fishing boats in Topsail Island. To enter the marina we had to turn sharply right after passing the Surf-City Swing Bridge. We did and promptly went aground, nearly launching Sandy off the bow in the process. Backing off the sandbar, only then did I notice the tiny red and green markers that indicated the narrow entrance channel. Nevertheless, it was a great spot to tie up for the night. The next morning we left early and made it about 70 miles to Morehead City, NC. We left Morehead City at the crack of dawn the next day to reach our destination which was Oriental, NC -- only 20 miles away, but with strong, west winds promising to build. After the month we spent there 2 years ago recovering from a lightening strike, Oriental is like a second home port to us. While tied up at the Oriental Harbor Marina, we spent three days waiting out a cold front. During this time, we hooked up for dinner and a long awaited reunion with our dear friends Greg and Suzy. What a great time we had visiting these two former cruising friends that go way out of their way to make us feel at home whenever we see them. We must get them to come north sometime to visit us in Bristol.

On April 25th, departing Oriental, we pushed on hard and made it all the way to our anchorage in Tuckahoe Point on the Alligator River. After searching a bit in this desolate marsh land, I managed to find a dog landing by stomping down some grassy hummocks between the numerous cypress stumps. Given the river’s namesake, Sandy was not taking one step out of the dinghy. However, it was a relaxing night on the hook punctuated with many owl calls echoing across the marsh. From Tuckahoe, we crossed the historic Albemarle Sound to Coinjock, NC. After another restful night, we left at first light and navigated the seven opening bridges and lock to reach Norfolk, VA. Norfolk is a great city to explore and while waiting for good weather, we managed to take in several military and nautical museums, the McArthur Mall for a clothing upgrade, and a couple of decent pubs (for a Guinness and Jameson upgrade). We did the town as best we could in three days time before slogging up the bay, first to Deltaville and then to our current spot in Solomon’s Island.

Today, May 6th, it is 55 degrees and the winds are gusting to 30kts out of the northeast. However, after reprovisioning at the exceptional Woodburn’s Grocer, I am content to hide out swinging on our mooring here off of Zahniser's Marina while I fashion a 13-bean bouillabaisse for Sunday dinner and Sandy and the dogs take a well-deserved rest. With planning and luck, we should be back home in a couple of weeks fighting over who gets to soak first (Sandy or Dave, Joop and Tula) in the long-awaited, claw-foot tub.

Lonesome Dove or Passenger Pigeon?

April 2nd, 2007 through April 19th, 2007

Back in the USA

Once we arrived in Lake Worth, we had to call Homeland Security to announce our arrival by sea. The next morning we appeared in person at the Customs and Immigration office with our passports and boat documentation. Fortunately for us, we arrived early and were able to check in and get back on board by 9:00 a.m. It was a bright sunny morning so Dave donned his diving gear and spent the remainder of the morning cleaning the bottom of the hull and checking on the zincs.

With good weather and calm seas forecast for overnight, it was time to move on. We tucked in early and arose at 1:00 a.m. to catch the Ebb tide out the Lake Worth Inlet for an overnight run to Ft. Pierce. It was a good run under a full moon but we did encounter some trouble with the Chart Plotter along the way. We believe it was caused by a corrupted route file. We arrived at Ft. Pierce early the next morning and with a favorable tide continued north up the ICW to a delightful fair-weather anchorage at Rock Point in Melbourne.

Our next stop was Titusville Municipal Marina. As Dave had a number of maintenance tasks to attend to, we booked a 3-day stay. In preparation for our return trip, Dave changed the engine and generator fuel filters, raw-water impeller, transmission fluid, antifreeze, and thermostat. All the while, I stood by and played go-fer (Go-fer this and Go-fer that). Several manatees gathered around our boat and entertained us with their endless quest for fresh water.

The morning after our arrival, I happened to stop by the laundry room to drop off some reading material for the book exchange and much to my absolute surprise and delight, I ran into one of our very good cruising friends, Sandy Schaeffer. She and husband Bob were also staying at the marina aboard their new boat NightWind. That night we enjoyed a nice dinner out with the Schaeffers along with their friends Merle and Susan at Dixie Crossroads. Since they were headed south and we were headed north, our visit was short-lived. Still, it was terrific to see them and finally get a tour of their beautiful boat. We wish them all the best.

The next day being Easter Sunday, we made a quick trip up to Daytona. Upon our arrival, Dave prepared a wonderful Roast Beef dinner. From there it was on St. Augustine where we stayed at the Oyster Creek Marina for a few days, this time to catch up on some administrative tasks. My driver’s license is due to expire so I had to schedule an eye exam and fill out some Registry forms in order to request an out-of-state renewal. And, of course there is always the IRS to deal with this time of year. Yuck!

For the next few nights we anchored out, first at Pine Island and then on to our favorite anchorage at Cumberland Island, GA. From there we headed back offshore for a run from St. Mary’s Inlet to St. Simon’s Inlet. This run is actually a bit longer on the outside than it is on the ICW, but the tide was not favorable for a daytime run in this shallow stretch of the ICW. We had a good offshore run and then continued up the Brunswick River to Brunswick Landing Marina. We booked another 3-4 night stay here because a very strong cold front was predicted over the weekend. Indeed a strong storm it was, causing severe wind damage and flooding all the way up the East Coast. We were happy to be in such a nice, well protected marina. We also hooked up with Greg and Martha from Southerly and enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Christie’s together.

After waiting out 4 days of high winds, we finally got underway from Brunswick on Tuesday, the 17th, and went offshore again for a nice run up to St. Catherine’s Sound. There we enjoyed a peaceful evening at anchor (another favorite anchorage of ours). Wednesday’s forecast called for N/NE winds but they weren’t expected to be strong so we headed offshore for a run up to Port Royal Sound and on to Beaufort. Unfortunately, the winds were stronger than expected and we spent a long slogging day beating into the wind, current, and waves. Needless to say, it wasn’t a pleasant day but we arrived safely in Beaufort and anchored out for the night.

From here on out, we’ll likely remain on the ICW. The trek through the Carolina coast is just too nice to miss. This morning we left Beaufort and headed 40 miles north to an anchorage in Steamboat Creek on the No. Edisto River. We may layover tomorrow since thunderstorms are expected overnight followed by strong NE winds throughout the day tomorrow. In the meantime, Dave is busy in the galley again this time cooking up a big pot of spaghetti and meatballs. There is nothing like a little comfort food to end the day with.

Despite the hold-ups for maintenance and weather, we’re making good time on our return trip. With any luck we’ll be back in Bristol in time for Memorial Day. Till next post, take care and be well.

March 8th, 2007 through April 2, 2007

Our Stay in the Abacos

If memory serves me correctly, our last update had us awaiting a favorable weather window to transit the Whale from Green Turtle Cay. Whale Cay Passage is well known for “Rage” conditions because of it’s exposure to the Atlantic so careful planning is a must.

Needless to say, we really enjoyed our time in Green Turtle. The Green Turtle Club Marina was well worth the stop. The marina just happened to be running a special for the month of March that reduced the cost of our dockage dollar-for-dollar for any amount we spent in the restaurant or at the bar. Basically we got to enjoy a “free” lunch and drinks every day during our 5-day stay.

After a relatively easy run through the Whale, we made our next stop at Great Guana Cay where we stayed at the Orchid Bay Marina in Settlement Harbor. Originally we had planned to anchor or take a mooring in Fisher’s Bay but the forecast called for high winds over the next few days so once again we were tied up at a really nice marina on a wonderful tropical island. Great Guana Cay is best known for its famous seaside bar, Nippers. Every Sunday, Nippers hosts an all-day Pig Roast barbeque with lots of great music, an incredible view of the ocean, and hundreds of fellow cruisers to enjoy the festivities with. Here, we reconnected with several of our cruising buddies that had crossed the Gulf Stream with us and those we had met along the way, including the crews from Southerly, Priority, Magic, El Rio, and Meander. For us, it was just another day in Paradise.

Our next stop was on to the anchorage at Marsh Harbour, the second largest city in the Abacos. Marsh Harbour is a great stop for provisions as it has two large grocery stores, hardware stores, liquor stores, bakeries, and just about anything else you might need. In fact, we were happy to also find a good veternarian on the island since Jupiter had developed a slight bladder infection that required a prescription for antibiotics. Fortunately she responded quickly to the meds with no side affects and was back to her old self in no time. On our third day at anchor, a strong cold front blew through the Abacos with torrential rain and sustained winds of 30+ kts. throughout the night. We knew our anchor was set well but the boat behind us had anchored a little too close for our comfort, which resulted in a long restless night watching our swing room and monitoring the situation in case they should drag anchor during the storm. It was good to see the sunrise the next morning so we could catch up on some much-needed rest.

When we left Marsh Harbour, we had planned to make Hope Town on Elbow Cay our next stop but upon leaving the harbour, the wind speed, direction, and sea state were definitely not favorable for the trip so we altered plans and headed north for Treasure Cay. The entire Abaco Islands were experiencing an unusual, extended period of very high winds from the North/Northeast which seriously kicked up the sea state in the Sea of Abaco. Consequently, island hopping for the next two weeks would be seriously limited.

Treasure Cay’s claim-to-fame is its beautiful 3-mile white sandy beach. The beach is rated one of the top 10 most beautiful beaches in the world and I can believe it. I have never seen water so blue and crystal clear. Jupiter and Tula were in their glory playing ball on the beach and swimming in the ocean during our week-long stay. Another must stop is Florence’s Bakery. Florence bakes the most wonderful fresh breads and pastries. While we were there, we had the great pleasure of running into Steve and Martha from Priority.

On Sunday, March 25th (Tula’s 4th birthday) we headed back to Marsh Harbour to wait for a weather window to go back through the Whale. Due to the continued high-wind conditions, we concluded that we wouldn’t be able to go any further south on this trip. It was time to get ready for our trek back to West End. In Marsh Harbour we reconnected with Martha and Greg on Southerly for our return trip.

Since we had to wait a few days for the right weather conditions to head north, Martha and I decided to take the ferry over to Man-O-War Cay for a day trip of the island. Man-O-War is known for its boat-builders and sailmakers. They also have a wonderful fabric shop on the island where you can purchase yards of Androsia batik-died canvas in an array of spectacular colors and designs. Man-O-War is unique in the Bahamas since it is a dry island where no liquor is sold or served anywhere. As a result, they claim to have no crime whatsoever. Martha and I enjoyed a delightful lunch at Hibiscus Café before wandering through the island shops and taking a short trek around the island before heading back to Marsh Harbour. While waiting for the return ferry, we encountered Lola who runs a bakery on the island and is known for her amazing cinnamon buns. Obviously we had to buy one to make our own judgment. Mmmmm, was it good. Overall we had a fun and relaxing “girls-day-out” away from the boats (notice I didn’t say husbands).

On Thursday, March 29th the day came for us to turn the boat around and start our way back. We had mixed emotions as we hauled anchor since we really enjoyed our time in the Bahamas but we were equally looking forward to returning to the States and back to our own familiar turf. Again we were fortunate to have a lively but manageable trip through the Whale.

We had a good trip from Marsh Harbour to Powell Cay where we dropped the hook for the night off a beautiful deserted beach. The shelling was great and I finally found some really nice sand dollars to bring back home. I would have been truly content if we had spent the entire trip in the Bahamas anchored off this uninhabited island. The next morning, the winds were kicking up so we decided to remain another night to enjoy this delightful anchorage. Later that afternoon, Southerly caught up with us and anchored alongside. We enjoyed a typical New England style hotdog, beans, and brown bread dinner on board their boat.

The next day we headed out just after 7:00 a.m. bound for an anchorage at Mangrove Cay. Along the way, we caught up with two more of our buddy boats, Bum’s Rest and Sea Dreamer. After a quiet night at anchor, we all departed Mangrove early and headed toward Memory Rock and then back to Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End. It felt good to end our time in the Bahamas in the same location where we first arrived. As good fortune would have it, the next day we had good conditions for crossing the Gulf Stream back to Lake Worth. We arrived back in the States around 3:00 p.m. after a fair and uneventful crossing with just some big ocean swells to deal with along the way.

Stillwaters Heading out Through Whale Cay Passage, Abaco

Staying Cool!

Hunting for Dinner

Cruising Buds at Nippers

View from Nippers

Great Guana Beach

Trading beer for lobsters at West End