December 12 to December 26, 2004

Sunday, December 12, 2004
Location: South Frederica River anchorage, St Simons, GA
Destination: Brickhill River anchorage, GA

We hauled anchor at 7:13 a.m., two hours before high tide. It was a cold and breezy morning. Just before we entered the ICW, we were passed by a tug and barge. A short while later, we realized it was hauling garbage. It was just like getting stuck behind a garbage truck in traffic. I slowed to allow a tolerable stench distance to grow between us.

As we approached Jeckyll Point, we saw the top of a sunken shrimp boat that had run aground on the shoal. It’s an eerie feeling to see a sunken boat. We thank our lucky stars that it’s not our boat and heed the Schaeffer’s warning to stay well off the point and mind the buoys here.

We arrive at the anchorage at 11:15 a.m. and anchor in 16 feet, two hours after high tide. We then tried to locate a spot to take the dogs ashore. No spot looked very promising but we managed to land them on a very muddy shell bank. The mud is so thick that we have to hose down the dogs and the dinghy each time we take them ashore. I already don’t like it here and I’m glad we’ll only be spending one night.

Since there is a 9 ft. tide differential, Dave decides to move the boat to a deeper spot. We haul anchor and move further up the river. This new location should provide us with a good 12 ft. at low water and make for a less worrisome night.

Anchor Notes: Bad dog stop. Anchored in position 30 43.055 N 081 33.107 W in section that shows 12 ft. at low water.
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Monday, December 13, 2004
Location: Brickhill River anchorage, GA
Destination: St. Mary’s River anchorage, St. Mary’s GA

We get underway at 8:50 a.m. and wind our way through the river. I have a bad feeling about this portion of the river. As we proceed south, the depths do not correspond with those recorded in the charts. Although we stay mostly above 8 feet, they vary in places I wouldn’t suspect based on the geography. The cruising guide says we should see a minimum of 8 ft. depths all the way through the river. We’re practically at high tide yet we come across an uncharted 6-ft bar dead center of the river about a mile and a half north of the southern entrance. As we approach the end of the Brickhill where it meets back up with the ICW, I hold my breath as I see depths go from 16 feet to 6.5 feet. It’s pretty clear that we will not be choosing this river next time.

Originally, we planned to go to Cumberland Island today, but, we’re expecting some rough weather over the next few days with strong winds out of the north, so we decide to go up the St. Mary’s River and anchor there instead.

As we make our way down the ICW, we are hailed on the radio by another sailing vessel Kumbaya. We were anchored with these folks in the Sampit River in Georgetown, SC. The cap, Gerry, indicated that they had just left the anchorage at Cumberland Island and it was very uncomfortable with a strong north wind. It looks like our decision to go on to St. Mary’s is a good one. We’ll plan to visit Cumberland Island in the spring.

Along the way, we pass by the Kings Bay Submarine station. This is the base where Sandy’s youngest brother Tom was last stationed before he passed away in 1994. Needless to say, she feels an upwelling of emotion as we pass by the base and many memories come flooding back. In some strange way, it feels very healing to her to be here where he spent so much of his time and to feel his spirit watching over us.

Our attention is drawn back to the navigational aids since many of the buoys throughout this area are shuffled and renumbered accordingly. The chart does not match the location of the buoys so Dave and I have to compare paper charts to the electronic charts to determine the actual buoy that marks the entrance to the river. While we are doing this, a Navy patrol boat seems to watch our every move.

We arrive at the anchorage basin at 11:45 a.m. and anchor in 22 ft. water. There are only a few other boats in the anchorage so we’re able to pick a spot with good swing room. The current here is seriously strong.

As we begin to get the boat settled, a guy on the boat next to us hollers over to Dave to grab his radio. Wondering if he was concerned about our anchoring position, we find out that he just wanted to welcome us and give us some info on the town. He told us where to find the dinghy dock and other sites in town. Shortly thereafter, another boater comes by in his dinghy and he too just wants to say hello and welcome us. Ironically, since Sandy’s thoughts are still full of her brother, his name is Tom. We had heard that this town was very boater friendly. It would appear so. I asked him about the rich, chocolate nature of the water and he told me that the ebb draws all the way from the Okefenokee Swamp that covers about 600 sq. miles of SE Georgia and NE Florida.

We take the dogs ashore to the dinghy dock. The waterfront has a nice quaint little park that is beautifully decorated for the holidays. I could swear Joop and Tula are smiling as they choose their respective spots to pee on the grass. You can almost hear their collective sigh of relief as they realize there are no oyster shell beds in sight.

We stroll through the streets of the historic district. It’s obvious that the town is investing some serious money in the preservation of the waterfront. It’s a pretty little town and everyone we meet is so friendly.
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Tuesday, December 14, 2004
Location: St. Mary’s River anchorage, St. Mary’s GA
Destination: staying put

Today we’re expecting 25-30 kt. NE winds with higher gusts. It’s a very cold morning and we think it got down to about 25 degrees overnight. Fortunately, this weather is only expected to last a day or two and warms up tolerably post morning.

Joop and Tula don their winter sweaters and, bundled up, we all go ashore. In spite of the chilly morning, we enjoy a nice walk around town and stop at the local bakery to pick up a couple of fresh-baked muffins for breakfast.

We go back to the boat and get a weather update. It doesn’t look to bad for tomorrow so we’ll likely leave in the morning. After tending to a few chores, we decide it’s a good afternoon to have lunch out. We head to the local fish market restaurant. The fish itself was good and fresh but we weren’t impressed with anything else about the place.

After lunch, Dave heads back to the boat while I take advantage of a few solitary hours to stroll through the multitude of interesting shops in town. It was an enjoyable afternoon even though I didn’t buy a single thing: not much room on a boat for the trinkets they sell in these high-end gift shops.

We spend the remainder of the day doing some route planning. Dave then cooks us up another fine meal and we settle in for the evening.
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Wednesday, December 15, 2004Location: St. Mary’s River anchorage, St. Mary’s GA
Destination: Amelia River/Alligator Creek anchorage, Amelia City, FL

It’s another cold morning, but, the weather report promises warmer temps by this afternoon so we forge ahead. We weigh anchor at 9:00 a.m. and head out of St. Mary’s River. Once we round the bend, the waters in the sound are very choppy and the winds are higher than expected. It’s blowing about 20 kts with a cold northerly wind on our beam.

An inordinate number of patrol boats with lights flashing are zooming back and forth in the vicinity of the inlet as we make our approach across the heavily choppy waters to the ICW. We’re not sure if they’re simply doing exercise maneuvers or if something else (read BAD) is going on. We monitor VH-16, but they are not communicating their intentions. We continue on and simply try to stay clear of them.

Finally, we pass into Florida and wind our way past Fernandina Beach. We can hear train whistles in the background, which is also the signal that the trestle bridge may be closing. We are fast approaching the Kingsley Creek RR Bridge, which is usually open, but gives no warning, other than the train whistle, if it intends to close. We nervously make our approach and are able to safely pass through without incident.

We decide to anchor at the mouth of Alligator Creek rather than continue on toward St. Johns River since the winds are continuing to build. Today, I notice for the first time during our trip that the sun is significantly lower on the horizon making it difficult to read the buoys and other landmarks. I think back to when I was driving to work on east-bound route 2 in the winter morning and faced the same brutal glare.

We arrive at the anchorage and lay out 120 ft. chain. Once we’re convinced the anchor is set well, we take the dogs to yet another shell bank, displacing a large flock of Pelicans in the process. At least this landfall is fairly solid and we don’t have muddy banks to contend with.

Later in the afternoon the winds settle down and it does get a little warmer. This proves to be a good anchorage for an overnight stop.

Anchor Notes: Anchored in position 30 34.554 N 081 28. 297 W.
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Thursday, December 16, 2004Location: Amelia River, Alligator Creek anchorage
Destination: Pine Island anchorage

It’s another cold morning as we get underway at 9:15 a.m. Our route today will take us down the Fort George River, through narrow land cuts, followed by two natural creeks (Sawpit & Gunnison) before crossing the St. Johns River.

This part of the trip requires a rising tide as project depths are not always available between Fernandina Beach and the St. John’s River, with some spots showing just 7 ft. deep at low tide.

We pass through the Sisters Creek Bridge, which opens on demand, at the mouth of the St. Johns River. Crossing the St. John’s River was surprisingly intense. It is wide and deep with these incredible whirlpools of current that spin us about madly at 30 degree angles while I struggle to hold us in the marked channel. I think of a scene from Jason and the Argonauts as I clutch the helm. Since we also had the current in our favor, we were traveling as fast as 10 kts at times. All in all, this made for an interesting short ride across the famous river.

We pass through a few more 65 ft. bridges before we reach the McCormick Bascule Bridge that opens on the hour and half hour. We only have to wait about 5 minutes for the bridge to open. Again, the currents are very strong here.

We enter the 10-mile Pine Valley Cut where it is critical to stay center channel. At extreme low water, depths may be less than 6 ft deep in a short portion of the cut. One side of the cut is lined with dense palmetto forest while the other alternates between million-dollar mansions and colorful, little, summer shanties all decked out for the holidays. Once through the cut, we enter the Tolomato River and on to our anchorage at Pine Island.

We reach our anchorage at 2:45 p.m. just as it starts raining. With one eye on the depth gauge, Dave cautiously circles about to find the best spot to anchor. The entrance is lined with crab pots, but that area also has the widest swing room and good depth. After two attempts, we carefully pick a spot just between two pots, knowing that when the tide changes we could possibly swing into them. Given the choices, we decide we’d rather swing into a crab pot than risk going aground.

Joop and Tula are less than thrilled with their new oyster shell bank. We promise them that we’ll be tied up to a marina dock tomorrow with a nice grassy park alongside. Resigned to their fate, they slowly climb up on the shells and reluctantly mark yet another new territory. To add insult to injury, Jupiter catches her toe in the sharp hole of an oyster shell and yelps for assistance.
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Friday, December 17, 2004Location: Pine Island anchorage
Destination: St. Augustine Municipal Marina, St. Augustine, FL

It’s sunny and breezy this morning as we wait for the tide to rise sufficiently before heading to St Augustine. The trip is only 14 miles so we can afford to leave at a time that would hopefully put us at the city marina around the 1:00 p.m. slack tide. Still at anchor, we narrowly miss a crab pot as we swing on the flood that points our bow back toward the open channel.

At 10:30 a.m., we haul our anchor, weave through the troublesome crab pots unscathed, and pass back out into the Tolomato River.

The wind picks up as we make way for the St Augustine inlet. It’s a fairly tricky piece of navigation as we try to figure out the puzzling collection of red buoys that lead us almost up on a sand bar at the entrance. We see large breakers crashing just 100 yards away. I then make a sharp turn and head up the Mantanzas River at full speed to make the 12:30 opening of the Bridge of Lions. Sandy hails the marina for docking instructions as I push hard for the bridge that has already begun to open. It’s close. We make the bridge and start to circle about so Sandy can rig the fenders and lines for a starboard tie-up. I notice with surprise that the current is still fairly strong. With an opposing 20 kt. North wind, the conditions are not great for docking. I’m somewhat relieved to see the two dock hands in position at our designated slip. As I start my approach, the current pushing against our full keel and the wind battle for control as I crab around the corner and by some miracle get the bow pointed into our slip. It was the trickiest docking I have ever attempted and could not imagine making the dogleg turn into the slip without our trusty bow thruster. We tie up, tip the dock hands, and give thanks for cheating death another day.

A short while later, we find out where the ABC Liquor store is and make a successful trek there and back to restock the holds. While hiking, we are awestruck by the abounding examples of beautiful Spanish architecture and landscaping.

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December 18 through December 26, 2004
Location: St. Augustine Municipal Marina, St. Augustine, FL
Destination: Staying put

We spend the first few days of our visit completing boat maintenance, clean-up details, laundry, and groceries. Since we plan to stay here through the Christmas holiday, we feel no big rush to see the sites. Instead, we feel more inclined to get all of the chores out of the way so we can truly relax and enjoy the week ahead.

St. Augustine, the nation’s oldest permanently occupied European settlement, is an amazing city to visit. The city has maintained a strong Spanish architectural influence. Upon our arrival, one of the dockhands tells us about the Alligator Farm located a few miles over the Bridge of Lions so we plan to make that our first tourist attraction.

By Monday we have completed all of our chores so we don our backpacks and camera and head over to the Alligator Farm. We are both impressed with the vast array of alligators, crocodiles, tortoises, and exotic birds. They have just about every species in existence, including two albino alligators direct from the Louisiana bayou. The noontime alligator feeding is a sight worth watching as they fling large sections of rodents into their gaping mouths. Sandy sincerely hopes she doesn’t run into one of these babies on shore leave.

During the course of the week, we all take the Red Train trolley tour to get an overview of the city. After obtaining special permission, we are able to take Joop and Tula along with us as long as we promise to hold them in our laps. I’m not sure who enjoyed the tour most, us or them. I suspect it’s the dogs since they received plenty of attention from the tourists. Hopefully they also gained a little intellectual stimulation in the process.

The next day we take in the Museum of Weapons. Although I agree to do this tour for Dave’s sake, I must admit that I was extremely impressed with the vast collection of Civil War artifacts. It’s worth a stop.

That evening we indulge ourselves in dinner out (Dave’s compromise for the Museum of Weapons tour). We stroll through town and decide to eat at Harry’s, which has a courtyard and New Orleans influence. We’re not sorry we did. The food and service were both excellent. We each ordered a cup of the gumbo as an appetizer. As the main course, Dave ordered the Jambalaya and I ordered the Shrimp Etoufee; both dishes were delicious.

As Christmas Eve approaches, Sandy selects a quaint little Methodist church in town and we plan to attend their 7:00 p.m. candlelight service. We also make an attempt to visit the historic St. Augustine village and the Ponce de Leon Hotel tour but, much to our dismay, everything has closed up early in anticipation of Christmas Eve.

Later that afternoon it starts to rain. I prepare the Christmas Eve dinner that we plan on enjoying after attending the church service while Sandy heads to the marina shower to shower and get fancy. At 6:30, we head over to the church; it’s still raining. Sandy looks stunning in her black floral-print dress, high-heels and bright red foul-weather coat.

The church was beautifully decorated for the occasion and quickly filled to capacity. Our efforts in exchanging our drab sea- (except for foul-weather coats) going duds for fancy landlubber outfits seemed wasted as we spy the sneaker and jean clad congregants.

Unfortunately, after the service, we both concur that the minister was the most un-impassioned person to ever stand before a congregation. They might as well have hired a malcontented, stressed-out Christmas shopper off the street and given him our pledge. And, not to compare, but we further agreed, this was not just because we miss Pastor Dan’s compelling stories about Tommy the church mouse back home in Bristol, RI. Although the service itself was uninspiring, they did have a particularly good choir which we enjoyed when they sang without the congregation’s help. Our story would not be complete if we neglected to mention the astounding vocals resonating from the woman sitting directly behind us who was belting out Christmas carols as Edith Bunker in “All in the Family.” We had all we could do to hold ourselves in check. Perhaps the parting sentiment exchanged between the two men in front of us was indeed apropos. “See ya next year.” We return to our warm cabin and enjoy a hot chicken dinner with Joop and Tula before settling in for the night.

Christmas morning arrives with high winds and rain in the forecast. Not to be discouraged, we bring out the new toys and Christmas cookies that Santa left for Joop and Tula. They are both very excited and romp around the boat playing with their new toys. Once they settle down, Dave and I head out for a nice Christmas breakfast at the Greek restaurant around the corner where the mimosas and corned-beef hash are exquisite.

We pass the remainder of the day quietly celebrating Christmas. We take turns updating the log, and savor the smells of a wonderful roast pork dinner with roasted rosemary potatoes and good old green bean casserole.

As the night progresses the rain and winds intensify. Throughout the night we see sustained winds in the 35-40 knot range. I pop my head up into the cockpit to see that this is a full-blown gale. Spindrift whips off the tops of waves that are crashing onto the docks and hurling boats up and down. We are fortunate that our boat is bow into the wind and are somewhat protected by other big boats around us. We can’t imagine what it must be like to be on one of the boats getting battered about on the outside dock. Tula huddles between us nervously as the wind howls and the stretched dock lines groan as we toss about.

By morning the winds die down some but it remains frigid. We take the dogs out and find the docks strewn with refuge from the high flood waters. Dave goes out for a run and has to wade through water up to a foot deep in places. The streets are flooded everywhere.

This is another good day to hunker down in the boat and cook something splendid. It’s no wonder we’ve both gained a few pounds on this trip. Sandy whips out the balls of yarn and decides to call her good friend and knitting mentor Nancy Morrisette to catch up on things and to get some knitting advice about the new sweater she’s planning to make for her grandson Ben.

The rest of today we’ll devote to route planning for our next few stops. Hopefully the winds will settle down enough so we can depart early tomorrow. Otherwise, we’ll head out the next day. Let’s hope it warms up a bit so we don’t equate Florida with the next coming of the ice age.

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Total Accumulated Miles Traveled: 1484.1 statute miles
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